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Monday, January 10, 2011

Cupcakes Gone Corporate

Yesterday, the New York Times announced that popular cupcakery Crumbs Bake Shop is merging with an investment company and will soon be publicly traded. The bakery plans to expand from its 34 current locations to more than 200 nationwide over the next four years. Now, I'm pulling for long term growth on the cupcake trend as I'm sure many are, but 200 locations?  Honestly, I will shell out $4+ for a well-done cupcake for years to come, possibly forever, simply because I don't like making them (There, I said it.) But I have to believe Crumbs is contributing to the idea of the "cupcake bubble". Part of what makes the treats so special is that they are so familiar, yet bakers everywhere have elevated them to a luxury good, worthy of the higher price. For the cost of two gourmet cupcakes, you could buy a dozen from say, Giant, or just make them yourself, but Giant isn't paying for Madagascar bourbon vanilla and you don't have the time to figure out if you've over-stirred the batter. So you leave it to the experts.

The problem lies in the idea that this trend will last forever. Chocolate certainly did, why not cupcakes? Because anyone can make them. The cupcake bakery is going to continue to attract even more former lawyers, corporate types, out of work architects, and home bakers. Already, you can just about find three cupcake shops within a square mile in any city, though most likely, only one is any good. Cupcakes won't lose their allure (how could they?) but those architects are going to continue to flood the market and Crumbs has got TNT by the dam.

I only hope that those frosting-mongers masquerading as cupcakeries (I'm looking at you, Red Velvet and Baked and Wired) will either die out or learn to step it up in case Crumbs Walmarts all over everyone.Yet Crumbs, if you can hear me, congratulations. I have often ended an outing with a friend in your intimate shop, sharing a cupcake or a slice of apple crumb cake. You are not my favorite, but I have been satisfied. I am fascinated by what you are doing and can't wait to see how things turn out. Don't burst my bubble.

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